(edited version appeared in my column Good Drink, May 8 2009, New Brunswick Telegraph Journal)
McWilliam’s winemaker Phil Ryan was in Toronto this week to present a vertical tasting of premium Hunter Valley Semillon and a component tasting of Chardonnay to some Canadian wine journalists, and I was fortunate enough to receive an invite. Ryan, a long-time (44 years!) employee of this private, family owned winery, first led us through 7 different vintages of their multi-award winning Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon. Semillon, well know as a main component of Bordeaux white wine, arrived over 170 years ago in the Hunter Valley, a far eastern appellation , just north of Sydney. The vines for Lovedale were planted in 1946, on tough terroir. Ryan said that the light sandy and clay soil is so acidic, so difficult for growing, that the locals say that “even the rabbits have to bring a lunchbox.” Semillon from this region came to be called Hunter Valley Riesling, owing to its similarities, when mature, to fine aged German wine.
We started with a young, mineral and grapefruit tinged 2009, which is very dry and acidic: good seafood wine, but rather challenging on its own. These wines are meant to age, as Ryan explained, “I’d like to see some of the new vintage released, while saving some for release in 5 years, 10 years and even 20 years.” The 2007 was a bit more approachable, but still had the same flinty minerality and firm acidity. These wines are made with no oak and no malolactic fermentation. They want them lean, acidic, low alcohol, crisp, and particularly ageworthy. The pH of the wine is typically less than 3, unheard of for typical warm climate wines. The 2006 was similar, with more citrus, floral notes and length, while the 2005 seemed somewhat softer. The real jump was to the 2003, which is their current release – can you imagine that? Holding a white wine 6 years before releasing it? It is worth the wait. The 2003 has the flint, but is much rounder on the palate, almost nutty, with a full middle palate and a clean acidic finish. You could imagine it has oak, but it does not. It is excellent. The 2001 is even more developed in the nose, with Riesling-like petrol on the nose, along with lime, minerals and a lovely long finish. Now I know why they called it Hunter Valley Riesling.
The 2000 is even more complex. This was an amazing tasting and a quick education in how wine from the same vineyard and production technique changes over time. Now, if only we could buy it in New Brunswick. This is premium Semillon (buying an 10 year aged one would cost over $60), but they do have a less expensive line that could arrive here for around $20. Get on that, ANBL!
Ryan also led a tasting of the wines that make up their award winning and good value McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Chardonnay ($17.49 at ANBL). We have lots of the 2006 vintage in New Brunswick, which did well with the critics, but I can’t wait for the 2007. It wowed the world at the Chardonnay du Monde competition in March, finishing in the top 10 out of 923 entries. That is quite an accomplishment for an under $20 wine. In typical Aussie fashion, this Chardonnay is a blend of wines from various appellations. We tasted four components that will end up making the 2008 version: a fresh pear, peach & melon laced Riverina; a coconut, mineral and smoke tinged, Burgundian-like Yarra Valley; a round, tropical Margaret River; and a fully, spicy oaked Tumbarumba. Then we tasted the 2007, a rich, tropical/peachy Chardonnay with well integrated oak, hints of buttery caramel, and nice balance. This wine used to be made with loads of oak, but is now a blend of 60% oaked (only a quarter of which is new oak) and 40% unoaked, giving better balance. Based on the 2008 component tasting, I expect the 2008 to be even more impressive.
Cheers!
Craig
Craig Pinhey is a writer and Sommelier, available for private tastings. Visit him at www.frogspad.ca.